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Livres de bibliothèque

GLOSSARY

OF WATCHMAKING TERMS

A

  • Anchor: A component in the escapement that transmits energy to the balance wheel and regulates its motion.

  • Anti-magnetic: A watch designed to resist magnetic fields to maintain accuracy.

  • Automatic: A watch with a mechanism that winds itself through the movement of the wearer's wrist.

  • Aperture: A small window on the dial showing additional information, such as the date.

  • Amplitude: The angle through which the balance wheel oscillates; a measure of the movement's performance.

B

  • Balance Wheel: The oscillating component regulating the movement’s precision.

  • Barrel: A cylindrical container housing the mainspring, storing and releasing energy.

  • Bezel: The ring surrounding the watch crystal, often rotatable on dive watches to measure elapsed time.

  • Bracelet: The metal or leather strap that holds the watch on the wrist.

  • Broad Arrow Hands: Iconic watch hands with a bold, arrow-shaped design for enhanced legibility and style.

  • Buckle: The clasp used to secure the watch strap around the wrist.

C

  • Caliber: The specific model or design of a watch movement.

  • Chronograph: A complication enabling the measurement of elapsed time using a stopwatch function.

  • Chronometer: A watch certified for high precision by an official testing body, such as COSC.

  • Complication: Any function beyond basic timekeeping, such as a moon phase or chronograph.

  • Crown: A small knob on a watch used for winding, setting time, or adjusting functions.

  • Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial, made from sapphire, mineral, or acrylic.

D

  • Dial: The face of the watch displaying the time and other functions.

  • Diving Watch: A timepiece designed for underwater use, often with a unidirectional rotating bezel and high water resistance.

  • Double Clasp: A type of folding buckle that provides extra security.

  • Dual Time: A function displaying two time zones simultaneously, useful for travelers.

E

  • Ebauche: A partially assembled movement provided to watchmakers for customization.

  • Escapement: The mechanism that regulates energy transfer from the mainspring to the balance wheel.

  • Exhibition Caseback: A transparent back cover revealing the movement inside the watch.

F

  • Frequency: The number of oscillations of the balance wheel per second, measured in Hertz (Hz).

  • Flyback Chronograph: A type of chronograph that resets and restarts with a single button press.

G

  • GMT Function: A complication displaying a second time zone using an additional hour hand.

  • Guilloché: An intricate engraving technique used to decorate dials or other parts of a watch.

H

  • Hand: The pointer that indicates the time, seconds, or other functions on the dial.

  • Haute Horlogerie: Refers to high-end watchmaking characterized by exceptional craftsmanship and technical mastery.

  • ​Helium Valve: A mechanism on dive watches that releases built-up helium gas during deep dives to prevent crystal detachment.

I

  • Index: Markers on the dial used to indicate hours or minutes.

  • Incabloc: A shock-absorbing system to protect the balance wheel pivots from impact.

L

  • Lug: The part of the watch case that holds the strap or bracelet.

  • Lume (Luminous Material): A substance applied to hands or indices to make them glow in the dark.

M

  • Mainspring: The coiled spring inside the barrel that stores the energy for the watch's movement.

  • Manual Winding: A watch that requires the user to wind the crown to store energy in the mainspring.

  • Minute Repeater: A complication that chimes the time on demand using tiny hammers and gongs.

  • Moonphase: A complication displaying the current phase of the moon.

  • Movement: The mechanism inside the watch that powers and regulates its functions.

O

  • Oscillator: The component, including the balance wheel and hairspring, that regulates timekeeping.

  • Overcoil: A type of hairspring with a curved outer end for improved isochronism.

P

  • Perpetual Calendar: A complication that displays the correct date, accounting for leap years.

  • Power Reserve: The amount of time a fully wound watch can run before stopping.

  • Pusher: A button on the case used to control functions such as the chronograph.

Q

  • Quartz: A type of movement powered by a battery and regulated by a quartz crystal.

R

  • Rotor: A semicircular weight in an automatic watch that winds the mainspring through wrist movement.

  • Retrograde: A display where hands move in an arc instead of a full circle and then jump back to the starting position.

  • Rubies: Synthetic jewels used in movements to reduce friction and increase durability.

S

  • Sapphire Crystal: A highly scratch-resistant transparent material used to cover the dial.

  • Skeleton Watch: A watch with visible internal mechanisms, often through a transparent dial or caseback.

  • Spring Bar: A small, spring-loaded pin used to attach the strap or bracelet to the case.

  • Super-LumiNova: A modern, long-lasting luminescent material applied to watch hands and indices.

  • Super-Luminova Grade X2: High-performance luminescent material offering exceptional brightness and prolonged glow for optimal low-light readability.

T

  • Tachymeter: A scale, typically on the bezel, used to measure speed based on time and distance.

  • Titanium Grade 5: High-strength, lightweight alloy with excellent corrosion resistance, used in premium watch cases.

  • Tourbillon: A rotating cage that counters the effects of gravity to improve timekeeping accuracy.

  • Tonneau Case: A case shape resembling a barrel, with a rounded rectangle design.

V

  • Vibration: The movement of the balance wheel, often expressed as beats per hour (bph).

  • Vintage: Refers to older or classic watches, often with significant historical or aesthetic value.

W

  • Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to resist water infiltration, measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres).

  • World Time: A complication displaying the time in multiple time zones simultaneously.

Z

  • Zero-Reset: A feature in some watches where the seconds hand resets to zero when the crown is pulled.

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