
GLOSSARY
OF WATCHMAKING TERMS
A
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Anchor: A component in the escapement that transmits energy to the balance wheel and regulates its motion.
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Anti-magnetic: A watch designed to resist magnetic fields to maintain accuracy.
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Automatic: A watch with a mechanism that winds itself through the movement of the wearer's wrist.
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Aperture: A small window on the dial showing additional information, such as the date.
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Amplitude: The angle through which the balance wheel oscillates; a measure of the movement's performance.
B
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Balance Wheel: The oscillating component regulating the movement’s precision.
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Barrel: A cylindrical container housing the mainspring, storing and releasing energy.
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Bezel: The ring surrounding the watch crystal, often rotatable on dive watches to measure elapsed time.
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Bracelet: The metal or leather strap that holds the watch on the wrist.
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Broad Arrow Hands: Iconic watch hands with a bold, arrow-shaped design for enhanced legibility and style.
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Buckle: The clasp used to secure the watch strap around the wrist.
C
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Caliber: The specific model or design of a watch movement.
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Chronograph: A complication enabling the measurement of elapsed time using a stopwatch function.
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Chronometer: A watch certified for high precision by an official testing body, such as COSC.
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Complication: Any function beyond basic timekeeping, such as a moon phase or chronograph.
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Crown: A small knob on a watch used for winding, setting time, or adjusting functions.
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Crystal: The transparent cover that protects the dial, made from sapphire, mineral, or acrylic.
D
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Dial: The face of the watch displaying the time and other functions.
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Diving Watch: A timepiece designed for underwater use, often with a unidirectional rotating bezel and high water resistance.
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Double Clasp: A type of folding buckle that provides extra security.
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Dual Time: A function displaying two time zones simultaneously, useful for travelers.
E
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Ebauche: A partially assembled movement provided to watchmakers for customization.
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Escapement: The mechanism that regulates energy transfer from the mainspring to the balance wheel.
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Exhibition Caseback: A transparent back cover revealing the movement inside the watch.
F
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Frequency: The number of oscillations of the balance wheel per second, measured in Hertz (Hz).
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Flyback Chronograph: A type of chronograph that resets and restarts with a single button press.
G
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GMT Function: A complication displaying a second time zone using an additional hour hand.
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Guilloché: An intricate engraving technique used to decorate dials or other parts of a watch.
H
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Hand: The pointer that indicates the time, seconds, or other functions on the dial.
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Haute Horlogerie: Refers to high-end watchmaking characterized by exceptional craftsmanship and technical mastery.
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​Helium Valve: A mechanism on dive watches that releases built-up helium gas during deep dives to prevent crystal detachment.
I
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Index: Markers on the dial used to indicate hours or minutes.
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Incabloc: A shock-absorbing system to protect the balance wheel pivots from impact.
L
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Lug: The part of the watch case that holds the strap or bracelet.
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Lume (Luminous Material): A substance applied to hands or indices to make them glow in the dark.
M
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Mainspring: The coiled spring inside the barrel that stores the energy for the watch's movement.
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Manual Winding: A watch that requires the user to wind the crown to store energy in the mainspring.
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Minute Repeater: A complication that chimes the time on demand using tiny hammers and gongs.
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Moonphase: A complication displaying the current phase of the moon.
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Movement: The mechanism inside the watch that powers and regulates its functions.
O
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Oscillator: The component, including the balance wheel and hairspring, that regulates timekeeping.
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Overcoil: A type of hairspring with a curved outer end for improved isochronism.
P
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Perpetual Calendar: A complication that displays the correct date, accounting for leap years.
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Power Reserve: The amount of time a fully wound watch can run before stopping.
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Pusher: A button on the case used to control functions such as the chronograph.
Q
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Quartz: A type of movement powered by a battery and regulated by a quartz crystal.
R
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Rotor: A semicircular weight in an automatic watch that winds the mainspring through wrist movement.
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Retrograde: A display where hands move in an arc instead of a full circle and then jump back to the starting position.
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Rubies: Synthetic jewels used in movements to reduce friction and increase durability.
S
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Sapphire Crystal: A highly scratch-resistant transparent material used to cover the dial.
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Skeleton Watch: A watch with visible internal mechanisms, often through a transparent dial or caseback.
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Spring Bar: A small, spring-loaded pin used to attach the strap or bracelet to the case.
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Super-LumiNova: A modern, long-lasting luminescent material applied to watch hands and indices.
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Super-Luminova Grade X2: High-performance luminescent material offering exceptional brightness and prolonged glow for optimal low-light readability.
T
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Tachymeter: A scale, typically on the bezel, used to measure speed based on time and distance.
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Titanium Grade 5: High-strength, lightweight alloy with excellent corrosion resistance, used in premium watch cases.
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Tourbillon: A rotating cage that counters the effects of gravity to improve timekeeping accuracy.
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Tonneau Case: A case shape resembling a barrel, with a rounded rectangle design.
V
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Vibration: The movement of the balance wheel, often expressed as beats per hour (bph).
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Vintage: Refers to older or classic watches, often with significant historical or aesthetic value.
W
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Water Resistance: The ability of a watch to resist water infiltration, measured in meters or ATM (atmospheres).
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World Time: A complication displaying the time in multiple time zones simultaneously.
Z
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Zero-Reset: A feature in some watches where the seconds hand resets to zero when the crown is pulled.